The Tattoo Festival - Wat Bang Phra (งานพิธีไหว้ครู วัดบางพระ)

The annual Wai Khru Ceremony (Tattoo Festival)
พิธีไหว้ครูหลวงพ่อเปิ่น(วัดบางพระ) วันเสาร์ที่ 23 มีนาคม 2556 
เวลา 9.39 นาที ณ วัดบางพระ ต.บางแก้วฟ้า 
อ.นครชัยศรี จ.นครปฐม

พิธีไหว้ครูหลวงพ่อเปิ่น(วัดบางพระ)

The Blessing & Resuscitation of the Yantra Tattoos

Wat Bang Pra (วัดบางพระ) is a Buddhist temple located on the banks of the Nakorn Chaisi river in Nakom Pathom, Thailand. The temple is famous for its monks and their practice of giving "Sak Yant" tattoos with wooden bamboo needless. Many believe that protective energy flows through these types of  tattoos, keeping them safe from harm.  It is not simply about getting a talisman tattoo here. The owner must activate it in order for it to serve as a lifesaving conduit.

The owner must respect the precepts set by the head master. Devotees return here annually to recharge their tattoos and the experience is quite exhilarating to witness.



The  "Wai Khru Ceremony" or "tattoo festival" (for non thai language speakers) is held on the temple grounds annually around the first Saturday in March. The exact dates are announced after the monks decide upon the most auspicious time. The trip from Bangkok takes around 45 minutes by car, longer if you take public transportation.



There are many other "Sak Yant สักยันต์" tattoo masters in Thailand but Wat Bang Phra is by far the most famous and has probably contributed more to the fame of the "Sak Yant สักยันต์" tattoo than any other temple in Thailand.



People begin to arrive in the thousands the evening before the event.  The following day during the morning ceremony the tattoos are blessed and their power recharged with new energy and magic which they believe protects them from danger and evil.



They sit and meditate in the  large open parking lot inside the front section of the temple while listening to the prayers and chanting from the monks on the main stage.



At the pinnacle moment when the recharging has completed, some of the devotee transform themselves into animals, imitating them to the best of their ability.



Sounds of monkeys, dogs, elephants, crocodiles, screams and maniacal laughing can be heard across the temple compound.



They run, crawl and slither on the grounds of the temple's parking lot.  Most run towards the main stage at full speed where the monks are chanting.



Not everyone is graceful, many stumble and fall into the crowds hurting themselves and other people.   Everyone seems to be screaming, praying or both. It is madness. This lasts for a couple of hours. When things take off they happen really fast. The experience is really quite fascinating.



Security is usually  provide by soldiers, body snatchers and / or other civic groups of volunteers whose main goal is to catch and calm the possessed devotees. Rubbing the ears calms the possessed and they snap back into reality, slowly walking back to their seats and starting the entire process over again.



They scan the rows trying to figure out where the next assault will come from next. Sometimes it comes one at a time and others in large groups. You can tell by their expressions that this is extremely strenuous and taxing work. The best places for photographs are unfortunately also the most dangerous. You can sit among the people praying, in front of the main stage or off to one of the sides.

งานพิธีไหว้ครู วัดบางพระ © 2009 Michael LaPalme

Tourists, spectators and photographers who turn their back to the crowd are at risk for a head on collision which can break expensive camera gear and even human bones. The risk of danger varies greatly depending on where you are located inside the temple. Rule of thumb is to never turn your back on the crowd.

For those people interested in getting a tattoo at the temple there are some additional instructions on the steps involved once you arrive here.

For those interested in the topic of Yantra tattoos สักยันต์, the following books are highly recommended:

• Sacred Skin: Thailand's Spirit Tattoos -  Tom Vater and Aroon Thaewchatturat
• Sacred Tattoos of Thailand: Exploring the Magic, Masters and Mystery of Sak Yan - Joe Cummings and Dan White

Wat Bang Phra is located at:

Phra Udomprachanat (Luang Por Phern)
Wat Bang Phra, Tambol Ban Gaew Fa
Amphor Nakornchaisri, Nakornpathom

In Thai to print for Taxi driver:

วัดบางพระ (วัดหลวงพ่อเปิ่น)
ต.บางแก้วฟ้า, อ.นครชัยศรี, จ.นครปฐม

GPS Coordinates are N 13 53.846 E 100 12.773

Tel: +66(0)34389333

View Larger Map

The Bayon - Center of Heaven & Earth

The Bayon lies at the epicenter of the walled city of Angkor Thom, and represents the intersection of  heaven and earth for the people of ancient Cambodia.

Faces on Prasat Bayon

Built  in the late 12th century by Jayavarman VII it served as the center of his empire. What makes the Bayon unique is the multitude of serene stone faces. The temple has many beautiful stone bas-reliefs which depict Khmer history, mythology and daily life, almost as if they were locked in a time capsule.

Along the south wall I came across some beautifully, detailed Devatas, the custodians from  Hindu and Buddhist mythology.

Devata on the south wall of Bayon

Apsaras represent an important motif in the stone bas-reliefs of the Angkorian temples in Cambodia (8th–13th century AD), however all female images are not considered to be apsaras. Wikipedia

Dancing Apsaras

In harmony with the Indian association of dance with apsaras, Khmer female figures that are dancing or are poised to dance are considered apsaras; female figures, depicted individually or in groups, who are standing still and facing forward in the manner of temple guardians or custodians are called devatas. Wikipedia

I have been fortunate to be able to visit the Bayon several times. During my latest visit  I took time to document some of the bas-reliefs depicting the daily lives of the Khmers. 

Military Processions

My attempts to document this place have been not been systematic due to my own aversion to crowds.

Battle Scenes - The Khmer fought with the Cham (Vietnamese) to the west and the Thais to the east.

Khmer Bas Relief at Bayon

Military Battle Scenes - The Khmer fought with the Cham
(Vietnamese) to the west and the Thais to the east.

Khmer Military Processions at Bayon

Stone Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

Stone Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

Ancient Khmer Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

Ancient Khmer Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

Ancient Khmer Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

Zhou Daguan's A Record of Cambodia: The Land and Its People

Little is known about Zhou, a Chinese visitor to the ancient Angkor and spent nearly a year living & documenting the Khmer "southern barbarians" before sailing back to China in 1297.

Zhou Daguan wrote that the city had five gates with multiple doorways, one in each compass direction, but in the east two. The city was surrounded by a wide moat crossed by bridges with sculptures of 54 figures pulling a nine-head nāga. On top of the city gate there were five Buddha heads, four of them facing four directions, the one at the centre was covered with gold. "The city is square in shas at each corner; the city gates are guarded, open during the day but closed at night. Dogs and convicts are barred from entering the city".

Faces at Bayon

The faces of Bayon, smiling in various states of disrepair and restoration. Visitors here may likely find ongoing restoration projects funded by various countries.

Faces on Prasat Bayon

The temple itself has no wall or moats, these being replaced by those of the city itself: the city-temple arrangement, with an area of 9 square kilometres, is much larger than that of Angkor Wat to the south (2 km²). Within the temple itself, there are two galleried enclosures (the third and second enclosures) and an upper terrace (the first enclosure). All of these elements are crowded against each other with little space between. Unlike Angkor Wat, which impresses with the grand scale of its architecture and open spaces, the Bayon "gives the impression of being compressed within a frame which is too tight for it." - Wikipedia

A Devata & Faces at  Prasat Bayon

Ancient Khmer Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

Ancient Khmer Bas-Reliefs at Bayon

There are 51 towers surrounding Bayon, each of which depicts four serenely smiling faces. A couple of a hundred in total, give or take a few.

 Dancing Apsaras

The city of Siem Reap is currently being developed at an incredible rate. Package tours brings thousands of people to the historical park every day. At peak times inside the ruins of Angkor the crowds of tourists almost resemble those at Disney World.

Dancing Apsaras

Its best to come in the early morning or late afternoon when the weather is cooler and the light better for photography. 

Faces on Prasat Bayon

The best time of year for visiting the country is during the cool season (Dec - Feb). 

The View of the Bayon from the East Gate

Visitors during the hot and rainy season may find the weather a little extreme and or roads inaccessible due to flooding. Prepare yourself for the extreme weather typical of life in the tropics. Now that the paved road from Poipet to Siem Reap has been completed it only takes 2 1/2 hours over land from the border by private taxi. That same journey used to take 12 hours or more via a packed pickup. The best place to get the lowdown between Bangkok -> Poipet -> Siem Reap is over at Tales of Asia.

 Getting there

View Larger Map

2012 Year End Review

A look back in photographs at some of the more interesting events I've attended over the last year.

With the new year nearly upon us its hard to believe another year has wrapped up so quickly. I feel very fortunate to live in one of the most amazing regions of the world. I spent the majority of the past 12 months working on IT & software development projects for the United Nations. I was not able to dedicate the amount of time I would have liked to photography. Despite the heavy workload, I did manage to get out from time to time to work on some of my own personal photography projects.

The Best of 2012  - A look back in photographs

I have been documenting the people, places and events in this part of the world for many years now. Here is a look back at the past year through my photographs. I hope you enjoy them.

---

Interesting Events of 2012

Mass Alms for 22,600 Monks

In order to promote  a new year of reconciliation after the recent political violence, mass alms and other Buddhist acts of merit were performed for 20,000 - 30,000 monks at various spots around Bangkok & Samut Prakarn.  I was fortunate to be able to attend a couple of these unique events here in the inner city. The idea of having tens of thousands of monks converging on one of Bangkok's major shopping districts intrigued me. I have been photographing those same neighborhoods for many years and the contrast in scene and characters was a welcome change. 

Buddhist monks during the mass alms in Bangkok's Chinatown

Mass alms - Looking towards Pratunam (Watergate District) from Ratchaprason

Ratchaprasong Intersection

Looking towards Ratchaprasong

30,000 Monks at a ceremony at Yaowaorj Road in Chinatown

Buddhist monks during mass alms

Genuine Smile from Buddhist Monk

Sign for 30,000 monks in Bangkok's Chinatown

These events were organized by the Abbot of Wat Phra Dhammakaya, in Pathum Thani. Normally these types of large events are held outside of the city. The roads are closed 12 hours prior to the ceremony and various stages are set up in the different neighborhoods.

---

Wai Khru Day at Wat Bang Phra 

The annual Wai Khru ceremony at Wat Bang Pra in Nakhon Chaisi district of Nakorn Pathom located about an hour or so outside of Bangkok. I had the good fortunate to be able to attend this event again this past spring. The crowds keep getting larger from year to year.

Devotee becomes possessed by the spirit of the animal tattooed on their body. 

The ceremony at the temple is for the blessing and renewal of the power of the attendees' tattoos. The tattoos have such a potency that some of those who attend actually become possessed by the spirit of the animals that are personified on their bodies. Every year thousands of devotees flock to Wat Bang Phra to recharge their sacred tattoos by honoring the teacher ceremony.

This is the  place to witness spiritual rapture in its purest form.

Possessed Devotee at Wai Khru Day

Possessed Devotee at Wai Khru Day

Possessed Devotee at Wai Khru Day

Possessed Devotee at Wai Khru Day

Possessed Devotee at Wai Khru Day

Possessed Devotee at Wai Khru Day

The ceremony is usually held at an auspicious date and time around end Feb/early March and is announced a few months before it is set to start. Wat Bang Phra is located about 45 minutes west of Bangkok. You can hire a car, taxi or min bus to get you out there.

---

Phnom Penh, Cambodia

This past spring (hot season) I found myself in Phnom Penh for a few days and had some time to continue documenting the city.  Phnom Penh has been transforming itself at an incredible pace.  It always feels as if I were travelling back in time whenever I make the commute into Pochentong Airport from Thailand. I imagine that the Thai capital would have been quite similar 80 years ago. The two cities have very few similarities now. 

Phnom Penh Street Mual

Buddhist Monk on Khmer Motorcycle Taxi

Phnom Penh at Night

Phnom Penh Skyline 2012

Khmer Muslim Girl at Kandall Market

Independence Monument

Khmer Taxi

Colonial Architecture - Phnom Penh Street Scene

Khmer Snacks

---

Burmese Python Extracted from Neighbors Yard

Every once in a while one of the friendly neighborhood cats  would suddenly disappear from our neighborhood. After many years of wondering what might have happened my neighbor discovered one of the likely culprits in his garage. Judging by its size, this beautiful Burmese python must have been picking cats of my backyard for many years. I was a aware that snakes this large inhabited Bangkok but never thought I would find one so large next to my own home.  A telephone call was made to the district office and a team of professional were dispatched. They captured the extremely large snake and took it to a sanctuary where I am sure it was transformed into a snakeskin leather handbag or wallet. 

Burmese "Cat Killer" Python

Burmese "Cat Killer" Python

Burmese "Cat Killer" Python

Burmese "Cat Killer" Python

Burmese "Cat Killer" Python

---

Bangkok Photo Fair

Save one or two notable exceptions, camera & photography shops in Bangkok tend to be carbon copies of each other. They sell the same brand items for the same exact manufacturer suggested retail price without ever competing and rarely offering any official discount. These types of photography trade shows have hard to find lighting and other camera equipment. The beautiful Thai models are more than happy to advertise their sponsor's product.

Thai Model at Bangkok Photo Fair 

Thai Model at Bangkok Photo Fair 

Thai Model at Bangkok Photo Fair 

Thai Model at Bangkok Photo Fair 

Thai Model at Bangkok Photo Fair 

---

Japanese Anime Inspired "Cosplay"

This is another really fun event if you happen to come upon it. Most of the major malls (MBK, Siam Paragon and Central World) will host at least one or two of these types of Japanese anime costume play events a year.

There are usually scores of young people all decked out in the most amazing costumes and outfits.

The best place to check for upcoming cosplay events is on the Props&Ops: Cosplay Event Calendar.

Thai Cosplay

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

Thai Cosplay at Siam Paragon

---

9 Emperor  Gods Festival / Vegetarian Festival

Phuket, Thailand - During the 9th lunar month of the Chinese calendar devotees of various shrines around Phuket island perform religious ceremonies meant to protect themselves and their communities from evil. I was fortunate enough to be able to spend a couple of days in Phuket during this period and document parts of it with my camera. The Mah Song are those disciples who have been chosen by the gods to become spirit mediums of the festival. Mah ม้า is the word for horse in Thai, and the name Mah Song refers to how the spirits of the gods use the bodies of these people as a vehicle, as one rides a horse. Amid a chorus of firecrackers and drum beats, they perform amazing acts of mutilation, self torture and flagellation.

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

"Mah Song" of the 9 Gods / Vegetarian Festival

---

"Pitak Siam Ant-Government Rally"

Thai Politics -  Living in Bangkok means that you experience Thai politics whether you are interested in it or not. Arguments spill out of government house and parliament and are settled via pitched street battles in and around major tourist destinations freaking out even the longest & most jaded expats. Thai society is sharply divided among yellow and red factions.

Pitak Siam Anti-government rally

Pitak Siam Anti-government rally

Pitak Siam Anti-government rally

Pitak Siam Anti-government rally

Pitak Siam Anti-government rally

Pitak Siam Anti-government rally

Fortunately this anti-government rally did not manage to garner enough steam to trigger the explosive change that the organizers had envisioned. The rains washed away the tear gas and drove the protesters   home. The next phase of this battle will involve rewriting the constitution that will allow Thaksin to return to Thailand a free man. TBC.

---

Bangkok Motorshow Pretty มอเตอร์โชว์ พริตตี้

The 2012 Thailand International Motor Expo came to pass at the IMPACT Arena in Pak Kret. These types of automobile trade shows are well known for having scores of beautiful women working as presenters, dancers, models, saleswomen and show girls promoting the auto industry. The 2012 Thailand International Motor Expo held at the IMPACT arena in Bangkok seemed to trump previous events in size & scale. The newspapers ran several stories about the record sales and pre-orders there were for this year.

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Motor Show Models

Add caption

Motor Show Models

New Members of Our Security Team 

This year we also welcomed the addition of two (junior) security experts into our family home. We experienced one incident where someone attempted to gain access into our home via a sliding glass door. Fortunately, the locked steel cage they found prevented them from entering but I was still a little unnerved to see that someone had attempted to break in. Jack has done a great job so far in letting strangers know that he is on duty!

Jack

Cody

I would say it has been a very good year.  Let's hope for the best in 2013.